Well,
We drove 5 and a half hours to Montreal and it was well worth it. In answer
to the question about getting in, we had no problem. We crossed at I-91 in
Vermont, and although I had my passports we didn't need them. The Canadian
customs person, as well as just about every other Canadian we met, was
friendly and warm. She genuinely seemed to appreciate our trek to see the
final Expos game. I was travelling with my daughter, who has been a SERIOUS
'Spos fan ever since the arrival of Livan! And we did bring our passports,
because I feared we might need them -- not to get into Canada but to get
BACK! (More on that below).
But the hassle to get the passports from my safety deposit box meant we left
Portland a bit late, and as we pulled into the outskirts of Montreal it was
obvious we were going to miss the first inning or two. Plus, I speak no
French except a few basic phrases, and my Mapquest directions had about 5
turns in the final 2 miles. Anyway, frantically driving north toward the
stadium in somewhat heavy traffic, the guy next to me honks while we're
stopped at a redlight and when I roll down my window he asks if we're headed
for the game! How the heck did he know that, I wondered? They either spied
my daughter's Expos hat (but it was real dark) or it was the Cubs sticker on
the back bumper. Whatever, what a kind gesture as they gave me some pointers
about finding Olympic Stadium (but they said they themselves would be going
to the Metro because parking was so bad.) And sure enough, we had to park
illegally in a residential neighborhood next to a sign saying you needed a
sticker. I worried the whole game we'd come back with the car towed or at
least a ticket, but the city decided to give us a gift -- no ticket!
We got to our seats (40 $CDN each from a scalper for the lower boxes) just
before the disturbance in the 3rd inning. But the crowd was pretty mellow.
Except for the FUCK LORIA signs, people were mostly cheering through
held-back tears. But when the score became 5-1 my daughter said she wanted
to leave and that she just couldn't watch. I took her out to buy a $90 Expos
sweatshirt, where a really nice Canadian pleaded with me for my
Kerry/Edwards button, saying he knew ex-pats who might be persuaded to vote
absentee if he sported the button. At first I said no way, but the guy was
so friendly and appreciative of the anti-Bush movement that I finally
relented.
One oddity I noticed. The fans only chant "Let's Go Expos" when Montereal is
in the field. I'm used to this being a cheer for offense, but when I started
yelling it during the Expos turn at bat several people stared at me like I
was nuts.
I finally convinced my daughter that a true fan stays and supports the team
to the end, no matter what the score and went back and sat down. Probably
30,000 of the 32,000 there also stayed to the end. It was pretty weird, a
last-place team losing 9-1 having everybody stay until the final out! But it
was very emotional. A fan started yelling about free peanuts, and walking up
and down the aisle with an enormous bag of unshelled, giving handfulls to
whomever wanted some. When the 'Spos took the field for the final time the
place went nuts. Canadian flags being waved. People (including my daughter)
openly weeping, and it was probably the loudest I have EVER heard it at any
baseball game in my life. Then the inevitable final 3 outs in the bottom of
the ninth, and that was it. But nobody left, the score board started showing
35 years of highlights, and finally the entire team came out and started
tossing baseballs into the stands. People were screaming and the balls were
being thrown everywhere -- even the upper deck. The guy in front of my
caught one right out of my hands, and when he miraculously caught a SECOND
one (!!) I really urged him if he would give it to my daughter. He looked at
the tears streaming down her face, and handed it to her. I got a picture of
the two of them together, holding eachother. Then a stage was set up in
front of the 1st base dugout, and a few players and coaches said a few
words. They were in French, English, Spanish. Levan spoke. My daughter
finally smiled.
And alas we left Olympic Stadium.
We walked around a bit outside the stadium, with groups of fans still
shouting "Let's Go Expos" and tried to find players for autographs, but
security said that night it would definitely not happen. And as we walked
back to the car, a goddamned phalanx of riot police appeared, walking
briskly down the street (the other way, fortunately!) I presume they had
been brought out "just in case" but it was chilling. I had the balls (or
stupidity) to step to the curb and get a nice flash picture of the group as
they went by two feet away. I'll post it somewhere and put a link in here if
get the time (this trip means I'm really behind in my work!)
One final note -- well two notes. First of all, every person we met was
extremely sweet. Our tortured French was accepted and people went out of
their way to help us (that guy in the car being just one example.) My car
did NOT have the dreated parking ticket. As I fiddled around the van putting
stuff away, I accidentally dropped my wallet and didn't notice it. Then we
headed home, but for some reason, even though we had about 1/2 a tank, I
decided to stop for gas about a mile up the road. Thank god! I discovered
the wallet missing, drove back to my parking spot (on Orleans) and mon dieux
(is that right??) -- there it was on the sidewalk!!! This was a final bit of
magic from Montreal.
The last note -- we got a hotel, and crossed the border next morning. The US
Customs guy asked what we had been doing. When I said watching a baseball
game, he said "You too?!". I said yeah, that my daughter was a huge fan. He
said he had a son with the same problem, and had also been there (although
impending homework meant they hadn't stayed for the finale.)
It was truly memorable. I doubt I'll have quite this kind of baseball
experience the rest of my life. Thanks, Expos fans.
st
Cubs fan
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